Treating Hyperpigmentation In Melanin Rich Skin

If you have been keeping up with this month’s emails you’ve learned how to determine your constitutive skin tone, that the part of our bodies that cause color in our skin is called melanin, and that there are two different kinds of melanin…eumelanin and pheomelanin.

Just to recap eumelanin is responsible for the darker pigments such as the blacks and browns in our skin as pheomelanin makes up the red and yellow pigments. Although every body contains both types of melanin in the skin. In darker pigmentated skin (Fitzpatrick 4-6) there is going to be more eumelanin in the cells.

Eumelanin is much more reactive to trauma than its co-conspirator pheomelanin. Trauma is triggered in the skin by UV exposure, stress, inflammation, pollution, and injury. Therefore, when reacting the skin containing more eumelanin is more likely to create hyperpigmentation.

By definition, hyperpigmentation is a common, usually harmless condition in which patches of skin are darker than the surrounding skin.

When treating hyperpigmentation exfoliation is crucial, however, since eumelanin is reactive and also not very soluble, treating hyperpigmentation in higher Fitzpatrick skin is a balancing act.

Our usual instinct to go stronger and harder to get a reaction from the skin is only going to backfire possibly creating more pigmentation as stronger exfoliation is meant to create a controlled trauma to the skin. Because of this, it is best to use less aggressive treatments over a longer period.

DOS

Use a combo of both Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA’s) and Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA’s) Some of my favorite AHAs for hyperpigmentation in melanin-rich skin are lactic acid and mandelic acid as they are brighteners as well.

Add a Retinol to your arsenal.
Add anti-oxidants ( ie. a vitamin C serum), anti-inflammatory ingredients (ie niacinamide), and SPF to your routine. Lightening the hyperpigmentation is only half the battle you’re going to want to treat potential triggers as well.

DON’TS